Scotland, the land of rolling hills, mystical lochs, and ancient castles, has always held a special allure for me. Beyond its scenic beauty and rich history lies a deeper personal connection, woven from childhood memories of summer holidays spent on the rugged coast. Those carefree days, filled with the salty tang of the North Sea air and the warmth of my grandfather’s love, were spent in a small fishing village called Cruden Bay. It was there, amidst the cries of gulls and the crashing waves, that I first fell in love with Scotland’s wild beauty.
Years later, I once again felt this enduring affection as I sat on the train to Edinburgh, on a pilgrimage of a different sort.
As a Freemason and Managing Director of Lewis Masonic, a visit to Canongate Kilwinning Lodge No. 2 was at the top of my itinerary. This lodge, which meets within the historic St. John’s Chapel on Canongate, is steeped in history. Founded in 1677, it’s a lodge renowned for its continuous record of minutes.
Walking into their lodge room (the oldest purpose-built Masonic meeting room in the world) is like stepping back in time. The walls are adorned with beautiful paintings, Including portraits and what to me looked like prephalite biblical scenes; the furniture is antique, and the atmosphere is thick with tradition.
Adding to the significance of this location, St. John’s Chapel also serves as the headquarters of the Royal Order of Scotland, a chivalric order with deep roots in Scottish Masonic history. To stand in a place with such a rich and layered past was truly awe-inspiring.
I was fortunate enough to be given a tour by a knowledgeable Brother who passionately recounted the lodge’s history. He showed me their ancient warrant, and pointed out unique features of the lodge room, like the original painted ceiling from the 17th century.
The layout of the lodge room was different than in English Lodges and the ceremony had a wonderfully genuine conversational feel. After the meeting, the lodge held a Harmony, and I really felt and home with some very inspiring company.
It was particularly exciting to learn about the lodge’s connection to some of Scotland’s most celebrated literary figures. Robert Burns, Scotland’s national bard, was not only a member, but was assumed into the lodge with great ceremony, a testament to his already burgeoning fame. The poet James Hogg, known as the “Ettrick Shepherd”, also walked these hallowed halls. Imagine the conversations and Masonic fellowship that must have taken place within these walls, fueled by wit, poetry, and brotherly love!
Interestingly, James Hogg’s son (A Lewis), who shared his father’s name, founded Lewis Masonic, recognised as the world’s oldest masonic publishing company. To stand in the same lodge where the elder Hogg once stood and to consider the legacy he passed to his son, a legacy I now play a part in, added another layer of meaning to this already fascinating visit.
One of the most fascinating aspects of Canongate Kilwinning is its connection to operative masons. The lodge’s history is intertwined with the construction of many significant buildings in Edinburgh, and they continue to maintain strong ties with the stonemasonry trade.
My visit to Canongate Kilwinning No. 2 was a truly unforgettable experience, a pilgrimage that resonated deeply with my love of Masonic history. It also brought back a flood of those childhood memories, of summer holidays spent with my grandparents in Cruden Bay. Grandpa Forbes was also a Mason (Tap o’Noth Lodge). I wonder if he ever visited Canongate Kilwinning.